Miles to date- a lot
Miles to go to completion of journey- no point in even guessing
Temperature, weather today- overcast morning, warming in afternoon
Hills- ridiculous, Climb- more ridiculous than the hills
People with Guns- 1 military unit, 1 Federale
Jars of Peanut Butter Consumed since Leaving US- 3
Plastic 6 ring holders collected- 23
Used Vega- Si
Days of unbroken Kung Fu training- 1 (number resets every time I miss a day, goal is 100)
My initial attempt to get to Ensenada was thwarted by two Federales (State Police)with Bulletproof vests, guns and understanding for a gringo with limited Spanish, that and my lack of a map. The Scenic road is not for bikers, period.
My second attempt was a fantastic success and gave me a small taste of the road yet to be ridden.
Leaving Tijuana was a cinch outside of the initial two attempts by local dogs to take me down, the first was cute in a way as only one of the two dogs was into it and the other was clearly confused as to why he-she was chansing me at such an early hour and what the end goal was to be had they been successful.
The second two dog team some 4 minutes later was much more pointed in thier approach and need to cause me some sort of damage, with these two i would take a stab at territorial disagreement with me.
The road was fantastic, I have heard many things about the ills of the Mexican highway system, but this one was fine with a shoulder wide enough to be a called a traffic lane in most European countries.
I only got lost once, but felt the tug in my gut, ask for directions, made an insane dash across the highway and divider in between speeding cars and trucks and onto the necessary onramp towards Rosarito and Ensenada.
Which brings me to a special moment for me, I got to say Aloha at Fox studios which is where they did a lot of work on the first Predator movie. That was one of those defining films for me as a wee, well, not wee per sey, but an earlier version to be sure…
In Rosarito I once again tried to get on the Scenic Highway, not out of spite for authorities or trying to be tricky, I was told it was O.K., and once again, I saw the giant sign of a bike surrounded by a red circle with a line through it, upon turning I also saw the Federale appraoching hand on gun speaking into the shoulder mike.
Why not put the no bike sign at the entrance of the highway and not a football field into it… Just a thought…
The people I notice are getting waaay more openly friendly. So, I dont want there to be a mistake, Tijuana was super friendly once I made the first move, Aloha, Howdy, Hola, cheesy grin etc. Now I am finding that people are saying all sorts of things as I pass and all seem to be favorable, lots of thumbs up, whistles, random shouts of joy, the heroes welcome if youu will.
So, it was destiny that I would have to take what I have called the mountain road not that anyone else here calls it that or that anyone really knows what I am talking about when I say that. It is the Mexican 1, and the toll road or Scenic Highway is the 1D.
So I am on the 1.
The one follows the 1d for a long time from Rosarito towards Ensenada down the coast, beautiful by the way if you get the chance.
Then they sepaprate, the 1 following the coastline and the 1D begins its descent first into the valley, which is grand and you get to see cowboys ushering thier horses from place to place and small town living, which really reminded me of Hawaii.
Then it begins to climb, and it climbs for…ever, when I would get to what I thought was the top, I would see it was only a dip and then it just keep on going up. I havent had the mountain action in some time, so for me it was rough, what made it rad were the road workers and of course the scenery, which my apologies for not getting pictures, but the camera is now so dead it will not even get blinky lights when I plug it into the charger. keep your fingers crossed for me that my buddy Johnny who sent a camera via regular mail will make it. If not, you get lots of good stuff to read.
The road workers, so rad as long as I was making effort, pedaling, they would be stoked, I felt like a rider in the tour de France the way they cheered and shouted. BUT, if I was walking, they would rest on thier tools, nod solemly at me and say nary a word. Perhaps they felt bad I let myself give up for that stretch, perhaps they were upset they didnt get to be part of the action and all they got for a show was a gringo walking…. Whatever it was, thanks guys…
Somewhere near the top of the mounatin, the actual top, not one of the many false hopes, I got to the military checkpoint which was hillarious! I never in a million billion years thought that I would be greeted by guys raising thier guns in the air cheering me on calling me Forest Gump.
Hello, I am Sgt. Suarez, you are Forest Gump (polite laugh) what brings you this way today….
I literally got a military send off down the mountain, I love it!
The downhill was fantastic, cruising down Valley walls forever! I have noticed and may someday seek assistance to put into a mathematical equation the following, my joy in cruising down the hill, mountain, etc., is directly proportionate to my ride-walk equation going up it.
And when the ocean was in view and I could smell the salt of the sea, thats when it happened.
It started out as a growl and next thing I was being chased by an entire pack of wild dogs. Now, if you are reading this from the states chances are you dont know what I am talking about, even the dogs that chased me in Missouri and Arkansas still had that humanization in thier eyes. THESE dogs however did not, I think I know what it is to be the gazelle in the National Geographic special. They are a wild pack of dogs that for all intents and purposes may as well be in the Sahara, theres nothing really in the Sahara though is there, Serengetti…
If it wasnt a downhill my video game might have ended on this level. I was on red alert, my normal cool calm composer was cracked wide open, leaqving me shrieking obscenities and occasiosally throwing wild kicks until I realized that would merely give them something to latch onto… the dogs are snarling and sprinting, Im pumping the pedals in full on mode, soooooo intense, no way to relate it, it was out of a nightmare! The feeling of doom, you know it, this feeling, and if you do not, I hope you never do! The way the saliva was frothing and flying out of thier mouths, the look in thier eyes which read simply – you are food.
And then they were gone, even the German Shepherd looking one that did not seem like it was going to give up and came closest to bringing me down. Aloha to the guy on the side of the road and I was in Ensenada!
As I sit here typing this, I have been meeting so many people, a part of me is stoked for the deserts I am coming to here in a short while. A very small part mind you, as I am human and made of some 79-80 percent water, i tend to shy away from the desert lifestyle from a Darwinian angle on things, the solitude that I will have no choice but to enter into is fantastic, and that I have a tent, I am stoked to sleep under the stars, scorpion and rattlesnake free. I look forward to the time when I get lost in this journey, get lost amongst the pages of life I am creating day by day, disappear from social media, from the world as I know it now,
…take me disappearing
through the smoke rings of my mind
through the foggy ruins of time
beyond frozen eaves
the haunted frightened trees
out to the windy beach
far from the twisted reach
of crazy sorrow
to dance beneath the diamond sky
woth one hand waiving free
silhouetted by the sea
circled by the circus sands
let me forget about today
Mr. Tambourine Man – Bob Dylan
it is afterall, a pirates life for me …
Aloha, I meet with WildCoast – http://www.wildcoast.net tomorrow!