O.K., where were we, just leaving somewhere and getting to Centenario, a few k’s outside of La Paz… Got there by truck, seems to me since the advent of my heat exhaustion i have been in the bed of a truck as much as the seat of my bike, oh, well, adventure is as adventure does, so…… onward and upward=]
We got dropped at the Tecate Six pack, kinda like if Bud Light had stores, it would be a mini market with a focus on shit beer that everyone drinks cause of advertising, No offense o course, but shit beer is shit beer, call it what it is and keep drinking in truth.
There was calle Miguel Alemagne, named after the gentleman whom we were to stay with, Mike from Germany. What a treat, the home was the slow and steady work of some thirty years of his life which he now shared with his cuban wife, Niurka. Rad couple, cool doggies, great times. I love hanging out with people who know a whole heckuva lot, does something for the little grey cells…
From there we were off to Glenda’s house. She was a friend of a friend of a friend and introduced herself to us through our facebook page. Her son gave us his room and we stayed for a week and a half in which time we gave a nutrition talk at the state center for rehabilitation, met up with the local bike community, talked with kids at a summer camp about living life on your own terms, lots of time at the gym, doing ninja weight training, cooking A LOT of beans, and gave a cranio sacral workshop to 14 very stoked attendees!
Good times, especially when the care package came from Dianas’ mom with two bottles of Vinomio, Dianas’ wine! I wonder if Im using the apostrophies correctly in Dianas’?
We rode from there and here are some highlights….
Last night we stayed at a restaurant called La Pila, almost at San Bartolo, maybe three to five k prior.
This would turn into a most interesting day indeed, and as we know with chinese curses, interesting is not always good, but, in retrospect, it’s all good as it is grist for the wheelstone.
We left La Paz early, at first light, well almost, the coffee caused me to spend some time on facebook in the bathroom, ergo, we missed first light by definitely got out the door by third light, not that it’s an actual term, but I hope you found it silly…
The ride was great and we changed terrain! Everything is green, it is raining now as I write this in fact. It seems like its been raining for some time now…
We rode sixty some kilometers at which point I began to feel the tug of heat exhaustion. Remembering what I read and learned, which we will be writing an article on soon, once bitten, you must be twice shy for up to a year as your body has to recover on a cellular level and this takes even the most top notch athletes t i m e. One athlete was tested with a liver biopsy four months after a bout and still had damage!
I got to the point where I told Diana to just go on without me to the next town and stop, giving me time to work it out without being the slow guy.
She of course declined my silly yet [I would like to believe] gallant offer and instead gave me her water and off we went. Just as I was getting ready to find a spot to die, on the roadside, we found La Pila.
The food was great, beans, rice, ensalada, hot sauce, the water with lime, nectar of the gods and then it got fun, totally disinterested waitress…
When we were setting up the tent , we noticed a big dog. Pitbull with teeth that were so big they didnt even fit in his mouth, not exaggerating. As it was day and the owner was there, doggie was totally cool, so we assumed doggie was totally cool.
I tossed and turned as I do when I camp, so it was no big deal when Diana went to relieve her bladder…
I heard barking, then I heard multiple animals barking, then Diana was at the tent flap saying she felt she needed to be inside as soon as possible, I heard the barking very close, sniffing, growling sounds around the tent coming from the back slowly to the front…. My goodness, she is such a polite lady when the furry velacoraptors were getting ready to make a strike…
She made it inside,and the dogs begin barking at us as they did not know they could easily eat the tent with us inside.
As the adrenaline of that incident wore off, I finally began to slip into oblivion, thanking god for blessing me with a moments sleep, I heard the first drops of rain. I immediately told myself that it wouldbe a brief shower and to pay no mind…. Well, the drops kept dropping and the speed increased, ergo, time for the rain fly as now we were being rained on by drops coagulating on the roof of the tent!
This was, as you can imagine a debacle of great delight for any fly on the wall dry enough to watch. Two people, tweaked from lack of sleep trying to put on a rainfly in a downpour, all the while watching for killing machines with fur and teeth doing it all with one very small bike light.
Suprisingly, given the situation[s occuring, we had many dreams, both of us, though it felt like we slept little, I for one woke up whenever furry razor tooth came by sniffing, or I thought the other was checking up on our bags, eating out bikes… Everytime i was left with the remnants of some amazingly wild dreams…..
Neil gaiman would have been proud…
The next day, we stayed at a very humble hotel, twenty eight bucks, cheapest in the towm of San Barrillo, get the name for you in a bit. A truly humble man owns it, I dont know his name, but he just gave us a discount and a cold gallon of water…. No hot water in the shower but a man has to become strong at some point, not to mention, be thankful simply for the power of running water… How often for many of us is it overlooked as a god given right, never realizing that you see people daily who will not know water or even food that day….
The gentleman said it would rain the rest of the day into tomorrow morning…
I love it! The low clouds, the drops going from heavy to soft, a mist and then a storm. The smell, the desert in rainy season during rain may be one of my most cherished smells if you can follow me.
We hung out a little spot in a small town this am after leaving the San Barrilles and its fun times, Diana did some yoga, I read Agatha Christie, very suprised that the book I was reading is the one that introduces Poirot to Hastings. Obviously if you do not follow them or mystery writing, than this will be entirely lost on you. If, however, you do not know of the pair and like Watson and Mr. Sherlock Holmes, you may like them a lot. I wonder who was first, I feel that Holmes was before Poirot, they are so very similar the two sleuths and thier, I want to say sidekicks and yet, muse seems the more fitting a monicker.
Off for more beans and rice in a bit, after Diana showers….how Diana manages her long showers in the cold water, well, we can leave that to Poirot=]
Turns out the rain was/is a cyclone…. But now that the rain has broken… We ride! (yet another reason to bike tour, saying stuff as that 🙂
The rain started three kilometers later…. As a joke I stuck out my thumb for a ride from the cover of the little store we were taking cover at. Whaddya know, a lady pulled over from the road and drove us to San Jose del Cabo. The rain just got harder and harder. When we got to San Jose, the streets were rivers, some were impassable, cars were trapped by mud slides, it was epic!
We ended up staying with her friend [lady who picked us up] and went to the Baja Brewing company that evening,,she had a 4×4, so it made things easier…
And now we find ourselves at the community health center, organic restaurant, very cool marvel of architecture, Raices y Brazos. The people here are wonderful and most interesting, the owners Peter and Jessica are super cool and it looks as though we may do some surfing at one of thier experimental properties on the East Cape which is a fully self contained off the grid community currently being funded and examined by an international team of collaborators. Suffice to say after last nights vegan pizza apocalypse, I am stoked! That and I have hit my groove of multiple hours of Kung Fu, Tai Chi and being ninja, Im happy as can be. Oh, totally forgot to plug Aloe. In the heat of all this activity, the jar of cayenne in my bag exploded. In the subsequent cleaning process, I ended up getting a fair amount in my beard. I didnt wash it off as soon as i could as we where off to another place, so i just brushed it out as best I could. Bad move, by that night I had contact dermatitis. It was as though I was the harbringer for the zombie uprising. My lower lip swollen with blistery pustules leaking clear fluid… I decided to very gently shave my beard with an electric trimmer and then it was just creepy, the condition was spreading. If a persons face would be divided into four parts, the lower left quadrant was now zombified… Later in the evening, a gentleman came by to visit, asked me a few questions about what toxic dump I had been swimming in and then suggested I douse the area with fresh Aloe and to continue doing so until I was healed. 5 minutes, literally after applying Aloe, scabs started forming – good sign.
Its now two, 3 days later, Im almost good to go again. Big lesson in all that. I’ve been thinking of myself as a moderately attractive guy lately… It was good to be squarely put into place=]
Any other news… Robert Plant and Alison Krauss, album, Rainsing Sand – check it out=]
Pedaling for Peace