Last night in what tiny snatch of sleep I managed to persuade from the sandman, I was visited by the devil and given his card….a black pentagram with a space in the middle.
This was from a hard fought night of sleep in El Descanso at El sacrificio whihc is a restaurant/something on the way south, literally in the middle of no where, well, not nowhere , but a very large piece of desert…the land is getting hotter, the sun seems to be staying in the sky forever and the road seems to be stretching even farther and farther into the distance…. We are up with the sun, sometimes as early as five and a half, by nine the sun is so high in the sky you would swear it to be noon and it seems to stay there till seven or so when the heat once again becomes tolerable and the nostril hairs are once again able to deal with the air you breathe.
We spent our next night in Cataviña in a large warehouse, completely empty save for the garland of white paper cutouts hanging from the recycled steel rafters of the exposed rib ceiling. The windows along the sides were in different states of being open, some with screens and others without, nordered on one side by a waist high, three deep row of cinder blocks and on the pther by police vehicles from an era long gone.
It was offered to us by the local police dept, second time!, and we even got to ride in the back of a police truck to the local restaurant, or as I prefer to whimsificate (to make whimsical or magical if only in the mind), we were given a police escort through town for yet another great meal of beans, rice, ensalada con ahucate (avocado:)
That night, sleep came very hard yet again, maybe this was the night with the dream…? The days and nights run into each other and all around, who can say any longer…
The warehouse was cavernous in the dark, and the lights outside cast some very odd shadows and allowed some of the space to be swallowed in a dark so black it seemed to be void of everything.
At 3 or 4 in the morning, I thought I saw a rush of something flicker in the lights pooling on the floor from outdoors.
There were then 2 loud knocksThat seemed to originate from the front middle area of the warehouse, where there hangs one slightly croocked, creaky metal door, hanging on its top hinge only, creaking in the desert wind.
Diana was awake and we were stock still, frozen in our berths, which was quite a feat to feel cold in the heat, first night that it took a l o n g t i m e to cool down… Not the point, the heat, the point is now I found myself quickly unzipping the tent flap and getting on my feet as quickly as possible facing anything but the wall in front of me. My plan to keep us safe, was moronic at best, it left my only point of exit from the tent a bit difficult…
On the way up and out, i snatched up our gallon jug of water which was half full and I managed to convince myself of the general utility of it as both an effective stun agent and parrying shield should my would be attacker have a knife.
Of course I was stark naked due to the heat, at the time I was so convinced someone was there that i figured putting on clothes was a total waste of time, leave me vulnerable at moments and would involve temporarily relinquishing my grasp on my new found hope, the water bottle.
Since I set on a course of action, I reckoned the quicker I got about initiating the search, the more confident I would appear, and, coupled with my nakedness, and fondness of the water bottle as a weapon, perhaps the intruder would get second thoughts and view me as a psycho force to be reckoned with…?
I searched the entire warehouse, which was no small feat. For one there were sections that were so dark, I found myself creeping forward with the water jug held before me as a crucifix before Vampires. Luckily for me, no one was there, in retrospect I find myself wondering why I never bothered to simply pick up a flashlight! Doh!
We left the next day for Chapala where we were to stay with the constables friend, Youyes, thats my best approximation of a name I still do not fully understand and even when waiting in the gentlemans restaurant, listing to three very different people ask for him, I have yet to be able to say his name or even understand the process the mouth must make as a whole to say it right, not that they said it the same, it was all different variations, and yet, all the variations were as confounding as the last.
Suffice to say, Youyes was not there and his wife, or assistant shop keeper wanted fuck all to do with the likes of us.
She would offer us no food other than beef burrito, even though the guy who came in earlier was given seafood chowder, not that that would have been better, but there were options she wasnt telling us, and then the seafood chowder guy, as he walked out asked me if I was a gringo. I said of course and offered to talk more about it, but he turned heel and left.
At this point I found myself hating Chapala.
The lady was totally against letting us stay as she kept repeating how she was alone and didnt feel comfortable with us staying anywhere near the place, not even in front of the place by the road! You may not know, but you are better off if you have a place close by when roadside camping, just to be safe, highwaymen still exist, and true ninjas know its best to avoid a confrontation, especially if it is easily done.
Her response and feeling was a most illogical thought pattern, rooted in what I cannot say, for if a person were scared simply due to being alone, that fear would be present all the time, not just when we were going to be sleeping! If she was truly scared of us doing something, she would have been scared right them and there, and given her level of indignation, she was most assuredly not fearful! I said none of this to her of course and instead blurted something about this being ridiculous, as if we would hurt her given we are riding our bicycles for peace, further, we are in the middle of the desert, not the place to to be inhospitable for nonsemsical reasons!
Luckily two germans who had passed us early on were in the parking lot and after a short talk we found ourselves loading our bikes and gear into a Pössil (means frog in German, pronounced pfhrosschiull) by Renault, which is a super fuel efficient travel van, very euro looking and headed up by the nicest couple one could hope to meet let alone be saved by!
Walter and Katy, so traveled and intellignet. From the Galapagos to Bagdad to theAustralian outback to deep africa, everywhere!
The morning we left my naked ninja training facility, we had discussed the pros and cons of going to Bahia de Los Angeles, we decided against it as it was quite far out of our way and now here we were inside the green frog heading there…
Three days later, we are spending our last night and being driven back to the main road where we will continue south… Of course, big bonfires on the beach, not sure if im going to fire bug it tonight.”.
Dianas biking capability has surpassed any thoughts or expectations that I may have had or cared to think about.
For instance, the other day we are riding and I am behind her, that happens almost as much as it doesnt these days, i got to see her get totally rattled by a truck and maintain balance like a ninja.
The truck blew by her and shook her like a leaf in a tree, she weebled and wobbled and for a moment I succumber to the cold icy grip of fear in my gut as I momentarily envisioned her being steamrolled by this thing if she completely lost her balance which seemed inevitable. Praise god I was wrong:)
When we got back to the road, we first looked for water in Punta Prieta where there was none to be found, so we drove with them to the next town, the mercado was closed, then we decided to simply stay with them to G. Negro. On the way we passed a French gentleman biking the penninsula with a fishing pole….
Here I am. Aloha!